Hi Frugalistas! “Ah, Madame, you found the real Paris.” Music to my ears from the waiter at dinner just a month ago, asking me how I had spent my Sunday in Paris. What had I done? I’d been for a walk that I had wanted to do for some time, exploring some of the parts of Paris I’d never been to before. With events of the past week or so making Paris seem like such a different place, I’m focussing on the normal. The day to day. The Paris locals know. The Paris you can easily, and safely, find yourself. Finding the real Paris is not hard, and is almost free. You just need to know where to look…….
Streetscape on avenue Simon-Bolivar
Starting your walk for finding the real Paris
You can start your walk by visiting Pere Lachaise Cemetery. I’ll be posting about Pere Lachaise in an upcoming post. So my suggestion to you is to start this walk either at the Eastern exit of Pere Lachaise or at the Gambetta Metro stop on rue Gambetta. (To get to Gambetta Metro stop from Pere Lachaise you need to turn left onto rue des Rondeaux.)
The Gambetta Metro stop is situated on a square with multiple streets heading off it. You are looking for rue Sorbier to the north of the square. When I visited, the street sign was covered in stickers and graffiti (so yes, you are looking for that street!)
Taking the road less traveled
Rue Sorbier is a somewhat inauspicious street, but as you wander along it you will notice a number of schools with particular signage. Written in French, they are memorials to the Jewish children of the school, taken away during the Second World War. Very touching.
Heading deeper into the real Paris
Keeping along rue Sorbier until you reach the end of it at rue de Menilmontant. You are now in Belleville, an “up and coming” area of north east Paris.
As you cross rue de Menilmontant look left. What do you see? There in the distance? Yes, it’s the Centre Pompidou.
Crossing rue de Menilmontant continue along rue Henri Chevreau, veering to the left at the fork in the street. At the end of the street is rue des Couronnes where you need to turn right.
Pretty Passage Plantin
Now, you need to keep your wits about you. You are looking for a left turn into Passage Plantin. Yes, it is that laneway up the stairs (actually quite well signposted when you find it). Passage Pantin is pretty, with a number of freestanding homes, that apparently were quite common in Belleville before the developers moved in.
At the end of Passage Plantin turn left into rue de Transvaal (which turns into rue Piat). There you will find……..
The most magnificent view of Paris
The lookout over Parc de Belleville has the most memorable view of Paris. Eiffel Tower? Of course. The dome of the Invalides? Bien sur! Notre Dame? You got it!
Even on a grey day, probably the best view of Paris
Head down into the park for a more detailed tour, or head down rue Piat until you reach rue de Belleville and onto rue de Rebeval. A few quick turns from rue de Rebeval: right onto rue Pradier, and then left onto avenue Simon-Bolivar.
Finding the real Paris in the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont
Just along avenue Simon-Bolivar is the corner of the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. Forget the Tuileries. Forget the Luxembourg. On Sunday at least, it’s the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont that’s the park to be at in Paris. Hundreds, literally hundreds of runners. Dogs, literally, tens of dogs. Children kicking a ball. Lovers stealing a quiet cuddle. Young artists drawing – not painters painting in the touristy areas of Montmartre. But normal, young men sketching. Oblivious to everyone else.
Wander around the park without a map. It’s fenced so you can’t get lost. Follow the locals through the current renovations, completely ignoring the “do not enter” signs (it’s Sunday after all!)
Did you find the water? And the little bridge over to the amazing folly? And the old mine shaft remains? Yes, the park was once a mine, and signs of the diggings remain.
Maybe check out rue Bolzaris. If it’s Sunday there may be a vide grenier (garage sale) out in the street.
The important details for finding the real Paris
Your walk is quite safe. I did it on a Sunday morning. My French teacher did tell me though, that, like many areas in any large cities, this walk is best enjoyed in daylight hours.
You do need to go up and down stairs, and the walk will take you a couple of hours. Comfortable shoes and a reasonable level of fitness would definitely make the journey more enjoyable. For the less fit, there are multiple metro stops along the way. Buttes-Chaumont itself is quite hilly.
Street art, Belleville style
There are multiple, simple cafes along the route. I heard and saw no English at all on this walk, so a translation app, or e-book is definitely helpful if you don’t speak French. There are plenty of cafes along avenue Simon-Bolivar – both modern and more traditional, as well as a bakery that was doing enormous business. There is also a café and a more formal looking restaurant in the park itself.
The closest Metro to get back to your hotel is on rue Bolzaris.
And you definitely need a good map that includes all 20 arrondisements of Paris (because you will be spending most of your journey in the 19th and 20th).
If you want find a great hotel in Paris,
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We love Paris its a great city. We have been to pairs on numerous occasions always something new to discover and find. I am particularly keen on getting out early before people get up. Have had some amazing experiences walking around the Montmartre area.
Cheers
Mark
The lookout over Parc de Belleville is a fab tip – thanks Jo! I honestly didn’t really take too much to Paris when we were there last, found it too touristy, though perhaps I didn’t really spend enough time discovering the real Paris. Will have to plan for a more local experience when I have the chance to head back 🙂
I went to Paris this summer and I fully agree with you…To see real Paris one should take a walk in the city..Its really amazing
Thanks Sumti. Yes, just hanging round the Louvre and Eiffel Tower doesn’t really show you anything of Paris.
The problem with Paris, Meg, is that it is the most visited city in the world. So if you go to main sites realistically all you see is other tourists. Where I went was within walking distance of Montmartre – full of tourists on a Sunday, but where I went I didn’t see any people who I recognised as tourists.
I must admit Mark that Montmartre is not my favourite part of Paris, but I completely agree with you about getting up and about early in the morning. It gives you a very different view of the city – regardless of your destination
Bookmarking this for my next trip to Paris! I must admit when I was there a few years ago I did a lot of the “touristy” things, but was also able to get lost down certain charming alleyways.
I really like Belleville when I was there earlier this year. I agree with your French teacher that it’s probably an area best visited in daylight hours. You don’t want to get too lost as some of the back streets are dark and narrow. You know an area is cool when there is a Mama Shelter hotel that opens up there!
Never been to Paris Jo but as you said to Meg, this is best visited in an off the beaten path fashion because it is the most visited city on earth. Heck, even this tiny town in Nicaragua – Granada – changes COMPLETELY when you head to the tiny little tourist street. It’s like a tourist spot anywhere on earth; bars, restaurants, persistent touts, and yep, good old pick pocketing. We avoid it like the plague. Learn from locals where to go – safe spots – and go there for a fun, refreshing view of the town.
Ryan
Everyone does the touristy stuff, and there’s nothing to be ashamed of in doing that, if it’s somewhere genuinely want to go. But going somewhere a bit different shows you a very different part of any destination
I must admit I have looked at Mama Shelter and often been tempted – it looks so cool, and of course is such a great price. Now that I know the area a bit better I think I’ll be having a more serious look next time I go to Paris
It’s a universal truth, isn’t it Ryan? Doesn’t matter where in the world you are, go where the locals go for the best deals, best experiences and best fun
This is a great place, Parc de Belleville!!! Thanks for mentioning it:) There’s always something special when you walk around the city:) Happy travels… xoxo
I wish had had time to go into the Parc at Belleville because it really did look very nice – and of course that view from the look out was fabulous!
I did this walk with my dog — it’s wonderful. Thank you.
I’m sure the dog would have loved it – there were so many in Buttes Chaumont when I got there!
My husband and I really enjoyed walking around St. Germain (6th arrondissement). We rented an apartment less than a block from Saint Sulpice. The cafes here, especially on Rue de Buci and Rue de Seine, were filled with locals, music, and Parisien energy every evening. We were close to Luxembourg Gardens and several famous chocolatiers. It was very far removed from the touristy atmosphere of Notre Dame and the Louvre.
I love that part of Paris too Tami, although I think it is a bit more touristy after St Sulpice featured in the Da Vinci Code. But I do agree with you that it’s an authentic part of the city
I love exploring cities by walking around. Pinned to my France Board
Thanks Jan. I’m in complete agreement – walking around is the best way to explore.